Framing and Running Gear
Created by James Tuxbury
As you can see in the photos below, the length of the new ship I am building it is quite
large, 10.6ft to be exact. The ship is being built in half's
and the two half's are held together by four very large bolts
as seen in the fore and aft photos. When I received the plans for this ship I had to
blow them up to the size I use 1/48.
The most important part of the plans as far as the hull goes when starting is the Forward-Aft drawing. This
the shape of each rib, and the hull in general. The next most important is the ships side lines as it shows the
spacing of the ribs
and the shape that the keel should take. The keel is made of 1 X 2 pine. I make the ribs out of scrap
wood like 1 X 3 pine, gluing them together
as needed. In fact almost everything in the pictures is scrap wood.
I had a tough time trying to decide what kind of drive system to use. As you can see
I have one that I built and a drop in electric drill as shown in
the center left picture. The drill is a Craftsman 18V
battery drill, it has 1200 RPM at 18 Volts so I don't know exactly what the maximum RPM will
be. I guess around
900 to 1000 RPM would be a good guess. That is plenty for this ship as it uses two 3 3/4 screws. The transmission
I built turns at
much higher rates in the neighborhood of 2500 RPM Max. Another advantage of the drop in drill is
that it looks as if I will not need to use any
universal couplings. It chucks right onto the drive shaft and it runs
very very smooth.
In the picture with the clamps I screwed a screw into the rib so that the clamps could
have some place to clamp onto. This is a photo of Frigate 73.
In the far right picture are the drive units that drive frigate 73. You can see the type of speed
controls I use they are Tamaya mechanical three
speed controllers (LXKAL6 from Tower Hobbies) that come out of radio control
cars. This is the speed control I use in all of my ships and it can carry
the load of three 12ah batteries. I have a 1ohm
wirewound resistor (the brown thing under the upper motor) that is switched in by two micro switchs
one for each drive unit
which gives me 3 lower speeds, resulting in 6 speeds forward on each screw. There are also 6 speeds in reverse which is
totally unecessary and never used.
The above picture (left) you can see the business end of the Tico.
The picture above (right) you can see the latest innovations to the Tico, I have incorporated
two battery powered drills, old Craftsmans,
they have a wire that allows them to shift from high to low speeds. Its a
simple apparatis so I installed a slider right between the two drill
assemblies that are operated with one servo, it works
better than I had anticipated the only drawback to this system over the system
installed in the frigates is that I have to
stop the motors before shifting from high to low to prevent the meshing gears from stripping.
450 So.Old Orchard Ave.
Webster Groves, Missouri 63119
Steps in building your own screws.
Click on the image
Copyright 2008-16<©>All rights reserved James Tuxbury